Marie-Annick Consola and Gabriel Ruetsch (pictured) of Les Vignobles Foncalieu, France’s largest wine cooperative, held a considered tasting of eight wines from the Languedoc at Jimmy Smith’s West London Wine School, Friday. The Chief Agronomist and Ambassador for the UK and Ireland greeted a long table of guests deep in the underbelly of the Big Yellow Storage Company, Fulham, amid temperature-controlled vaults brimming with slumbering wines.
The evening began with a fresh aperitif of lithe, apricot-scented Viognier from the Le Versant (hillside) collection, which Consola noted could work well with scallops from the plancha, while Ruetsch explained that the demanding vine is in fact the same clone as that used by the exclusive northern Rhône property, Château-Grillet. Pinot Noir from the same range, ensuing, proved enticingly delicately strawberry-scented. ‘And good with the Christmas turkey, I bet!’ said a guest.
Pale, onion-skin in colour, Griset Gris de Gris, crafted from a juicy grape variety which feels less modrant than Sauvignon Blanc followed. Consola observed a lightness of touch where colour is concerned is often an important consideration by the English consumer. Costing £7.99, with the 2014 vintage having already sold out, this struck many attendees as a wine of notable value with tangible-seeming mineral qualities. Consola also mentioned that Foncalieu’s Piquepoul Noir (brother of Piquepoul Blanc of Languedoc lip-stinger, Picpoul de Pinet fame) could appeal, like this Griset, to lovers of the idiosyncratic.
A journey into a brace of wines from Foncalieu’s Atelier Prestige collection followed. Although the country’s largest collective landholder, Foncalieu proves through these wines that they can create truly world-beating, Syrah-focused wines on a boutique scale. The first, the classy Les Illustres, is crafted, chiefly, by Myriam Roussel who is one of eight vine-growers tending a mosaic of terroir. Sandalwood scents were joined by a suave texture binding caramel and even tobacco leaf.
Also from Atelier Prestige, with violet scents, Le Lien is a Minervois wine delivering a refined, crisp, dark chocolate-laden palate with a long finish. It is made by fifth generation winemaker, Romain Torrecilla and father, Luc (pictured), along with friend, Pascal Bergé.
Finally, the group, now tucking into Comte, took a tour of the wines of the historic Château Haut Gléon, which nestles amid the perfume of thyme, lavender and rosemary in the heart of Corbières in the evocatively-titled Vallée du Paradis. In 2012, Foncalieu purchased the property which dates in parts to 1223, explained Ruetsch. Not only does it confer Foncalieu a flagship estate which acts as their figurehead, but it also provides a homely destination for clients, customers and of course, holidaymakers.
One recent visitor wrote in the guestbook: “it is not easy to find in France a serious winery that also provides fantastic accommodation. Haut Gléon is truly unique…” The spirit of the cooperative runs deep here. Indeed when poor weather saw part of the ancient bridge to the house swept away last December, 30 growers of Foncalieu came to help with the repair.
Château Haut Gléon Roussanne and Grenache Blanc 2014 proved for a number of guests, to be the wine of the night with its pleasantly languid texutre, while the syrah-dominated rosé was a bold, impressive, deeply-hued pour. Finally, due for release next year, and taking the name of the estate’s Roman chapel, “Notre Dame de Gléon” (Syrah, Grenache and Carignan) felt distinctly refined. Applause and ideas as regards building Christmas drinking plans ended the happy evening.
Listed by Timeout, Decanter and Jancis Robinson OBE as one of the best places to learn about wine in London, West London Wine School was a neat, friendly venue from which to travel, by the glass, to a very special part of France…
