Long lamented by the sort of ‘serious’ wine drinker who might snigger at those who ‘wouldn’t know the difference between Bordeaux and Claret’, rosé has gradually amassed a new possé of followers. Indeed, a pictogram published in a national newspaper suggests Britons (collectively) drink, on average no fewer than 390 bottles of pink per minute. Celebrity endorsement of the category from Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt, who own an exclusively rosé producing estate in Provence, a region where pink pleasure has been celebrated since the Greeks founded Massalia (Marseille) in 600BC, has added impetus to the status of still pink pours, while tinted Champagne continues to hold a certain cachet. Here follows a selection of ace serves of truly characterful, cherry, prawn and onion skin-coloured wines to see you into autumn.
Languedoc-centred union of cooperatives, Foncalieu have taken exquisite care with the lesser-known Griset Sauvignon Gris, a juicy grape variety which feels less acerbic than Sauvignon Blanc. Try the subtle wine with a lightly-smoked trout salad. Also very much worth sipping is their Piquepoul Noir (brother of Piquepoul blanc of Languedoc lip-stinger, Picpoul de Pinet fame) from Vignerons du Pays d’Ensérune
From vineyards close to Timişoara – first European city to have electric street lights – Philip Cox, Bristol-born founder of Romania’s biggest wine exporter, Cramele Recas draws our attention to two particularly exotic rosés. Taking its tint from Pinot Grigio’s blushing grape skins, Calusari is white peach-scented, bringing zip to, for example, veal scallopini. Meanwhile, the amber-coloured Paparuda, a fusion of locally-celebrated, slightly coffee-like Fetească Neagră and globetrotting, blackcurrant-redolent Cabernet Sauvignon is replete with ‘cascades’ of lively raspberry and floral aromas. Try it with quinoa Greek salad.
And back to France, this time to the heart of Corbières in the evocatively-titled Vallée du Paradis, Château Haut Gléon offers a strikingly vibrantly coloured, Syrah-dominated rosé, plump with blackcurrants, raspberries and blackberries. Best savoured beside the infinity pool at the revitalised Château itself, or with full-pelt in spice terms, Sichuan pork.
We leave you with the notion of pink Champagne, described by actress, Ariana Grande as ‘about having fun and letting go, and living your life to the fullest!’ From the pop of the cork, Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé offers a fulsome, deeply-satisfying, textured pour… Try the star-like bubbles with super-posh fish (may we suggest a fried skate wing?) and matchstick-like chips.
