Described as ‘The Frenchest place on Earth’ by City AM, ‘Les Gourmets des Ternes’ unravels beyond a ruby canopy at Knightsbridge Green. The cosy haven, bathed on our last visit under the sensuous lyrics of Serge Gainsbourg and Brigitte Bardot, is just a few seconds stroll from the shopper-filled boulevards.
We particularly liked the copies of comments from fans of the Paris restaurant, including Carla Bruni, Sharon Stone, Estelle Hallyday (now Lefébure) and Jack Nicholson on the paper mats, laid over gingham cloths.
The family-run restaurant is overseen by Maximilien Marie, the slick, friendly 24-year-old son of acclaimed Paris restaurateur, Jean-Francois Marie, who is in charge of the original site. That was opened in 1962 by Francis, Max’s grandfather, who trained as a butcher. A convincing facsimile of the tin street sign references the location – Boulevard de Courcelles.
‘The menu is exactly the same as 1962,’ says Max, who has spent five years in London. Contrasting Alain Ducasse’s more formal Rivea restaurant opposite, which is more Provencal in approach, Max describes the food of Les Gourmets des Ternes as very simple. ‘We are a traditional bistro offering bistronomie – something that has become hard to find, even in Paris.’
Max places paramount importance on ingredients. Considering his grandfather was a butcher from Normandy, he often sources beef and double cream from the region, as well as Charolais, Burgundy, while Rosette and Lyon charcuterie with punchy cornichons come from Lyon, and Andouillete, which is not for the faint of heart, is crafted in Troyes. Also of note is the homemade foie gras. Fish, meanwhile, is caught in local waters, including Dover sole.
Our Lunch began with deep glass bowls to share of lentils, lightly-pickled beetroot with diced shallots, and egg halves, crowned with piped homemade mayonnaise. We then excavated snails from their pretty shells, which were not overly garlic-accented. Easily sliced with a Laguiole knife, the piece de resistance was the piece de boeuf which followed. ‘The char makes the difference,’ said Max, adding, ‘always ask for saigné!’
From a depthful French-filled wine list, which is charmingly handwritten using a ruler as guide, we savoured a cool carafe of subtle, onion-skin coloured rosé. Under the positive effects of the delicate pour on a slightly precipitous afternoon, we did indeed feel in accord with the City AM reviewer…
Les Gourmets Des Ternes is at 9 Knightsbridge Green, London, SW1X 7QL (lesgourmetsrestaurants.com)
