I have particularly fond memories of the virtual wine tasting session held, for my part, one sunny afternoon last week in my front garden to sample vinous nectar. Was it the hot weather, the temporary escape from the excruciating daily torture of managing (or ‘salvaging’?) work while educating, entertaining and feeding three children – or the sheer joy at being LEFT ALONE, even for just for one hour? Anyway, the Zoom wine tasting session organised by Clementine Communications on behalf of Cramele Recas, Romania’s largest exporter of wines last Thursday was particularly welcome.
The mission was to get at the truth by trying all six bottles on trial. Hosted by the founder of the wineries himself, the jovial Bristolian Philip Cox, the distinguished panel started with the most summery wine on offer: Solara Orange 2019, a natural wine of an unusual, um, orangey colour, and a fruity nose with pear, citrus-ish and vanilla flavours. The wine is made with minimal intervention, no sulphur dioxide, and is a refreshing alternative to commercial wines. The three whites we tried afterwards were are all very distinct, the finely balanced Sorcova Pinot Grigio was a pleasant surprise compared to the – often disappointing – Italian equivalents, the classic Fetească Regală is amazing value (£5.25 at ASDA!) while the limpid and velvety wildflower Cuvée Blanc Reserva 2019 was special indeed.
Pinot Noirs from California and South America can be wonderful, but they are also very dear. Incanta Pinot Noir 2019, for less than eight pounds at Majestic,is a much cheaper option. Cramele Recas seems particularly chuffed with their Selene Feteasca Neagra 2018, with hand-picked grapes carefully selected from micro parcels at their Gypsey Hill vineyard. Slightly spicy, it is a very promising red.
Cox, who founded the company in 1992 with his Romanian wife, has worked hard for years to expand operations in the country. With 1,250 hectares of vineyards and three wineries today, Cramele Recaş became the number one wine producer in Romania this year (in terms of volume and turnover).
Amid the COVID-19 crisis, this is not a time for celebration though. Cox did not seem overly worried about his own operations but thinks the pandemic could kill off many ailing producers, leading to a lot of industry consolidation. “There are too many wineries in the world, more than the market actually needs” he said, adding, perhaps cheekily, that many producers make wine “that nobody actually wants.”
I left this session having learnt a couple of crucial things: first, we all drink a bit too much en confinement, this doesn’t mean the wine industry is thriving (though the smartest players will!), and perhaps most importantly, don’t dismiss Romanian wines: their breadth is surprising. Plus they are very, very good value.
Contributed by Charlotte Kan
@charlottekanjournalist
