The world of wine has changed a lot in the last twenty five years (wrote journalist, Leslie Williams in The Irish Examiner). Back in 1990 when I first began seeking out varietal wines (as opposed to branded table wines) the best value (drinkable) Cabernet Sauvignon was from Bulgaria and the best value Pinot Noir was from Romania.
I visited a number of Romanian vineyards a few weeks ago and what I found was hugely encouraging and I predict a comeback.
Romania currently ranks seventh in wine production in Europe and since they joined the EU in 2007 new plantings and investment in wineries have increased at a rapid rate.
Families that had their wine estates confiscated by the communists in 1948 are now beginning to buy back their vineyards. In other regions enthusiastic blow-ins such as Philip Cox have invested heavily and are determined to revive Romania’s win image. Philip owns Cramela Recas and is originally from the UK but married a Romanian (his ultra-efficient export manager Elvira!)
Cramela Recas is not far from Timisoara in Western Romania and their 935ha have been completely replanted since 1999; last year they produced 11,643,148 bottles. Sadly the communists knew or cared little about viticulture and little of what is left from their rule is worth saving due to chaotic planting methods.
Cramela Recas’ main production is international varieties such as Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir but they also grow native varieties such as Feteasca Neagra (red) and Feteasca Regale (white).
I also visited, and was impressed by, newer winery Avincis in the small region of Dragasani around 3 hours west of Bucharest. The Stirbey wines were once served on the Orient Express.
Around the Black Sea and in the foothills of the Carpathian mountains which form a crescent in the centre of the country you will find new wineries opening every month. Watch this space.
Do Try These At Home
Umbrele Sauvignon Blanc, Recas
Romania may be in Eastern Europe but in terms of both latitude and attitude it is more aligned to France (credit to Hugh Johnson for that last phrase). This is clearly a European Sauvignon Blanc with emphasis on the mineral and green apple elements but also with floral touches and clean crisp acidity on the finish
Umbrele Merlot, Recas
Merlot is a varietal you don’t see as often these days (thanks in part to the movie Sideways) but as long as you don’t over-crop this variety it can offer lots of pleasure (generally it is best to avoid very cheap Merlot). This has soft plum fruit, a small amount of structure for balance and a lingering forest fruits finish.
(Both £6, Alliance Wine, Hennings)
Thank you for sharing your post with Clementine Communications, Leslie. Read more of his considered musings here.
